In the world of electric guitars and basses, vintage instruments hold a special allure. Their aged finishes, unique tones, and rich histories captivate players and collectors alike. If you’re looking to inject some of that vintage charm into your own instrument, consider a custom refinish. In this guide, we’ll explore how to give your electric bass a stunning makeover with a “funky paint” job inspired by classic vintage colors. We’ll delve into the process of refinishing your bass body with a beautiful Shell Pink, a rare and highly sought-after color from the golden era of electric guitars.
The fretboard
Refinishing a guitar body might seem daunting, but with the right approach, it’s a rewarding DIY project. One of the advantages of working on a previously finished body is the simplified preparation. The wood is already sealed and sanded, providing a solid foundation for your new paint. The existing finish, if in good condition, acts as an excellent base, saving you significant prep time. However, proper priming is crucial to ensure the new paint adheres flawlessly to the old finish.
To begin, lightly sand the existing finish with medium-grit sandpaper (around #220). This process, known as “scuff sanding,” removes the glossy sheen and creates a “tooth” for the primer to grip onto. Protect areas you don’t want painted, like pickup and neck cavities, by masking them off with painter’s tape. This ensures a clean fit when you reassemble your bass later.
Sanded and masked
Next, it’s time to prime the body. For this, a white-pigmented shellac primer works exceptionally well. Shellac’s key advantage lies in its excellent adhesion to various surfaces, bridging the old finish and the new paint layers effectively, preventing potential bonding issues. A popular and readily available brand is BINS shellac primer, known for its user-friendly application in guitar refinishing projects. When spraying, create a makeshift spray booth using a large cardboard box in a well-ventilated area, ideally outdoors. This minimizes dust contamination while the primer and paint are drying.
Safety First: Always prioritize safety when working with paints and finishes. Carefully read and adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions for all products. Ensure adequate ventilation, ideally working outdoors, and wear a respirator mask specifically designed for spray paint fumes.
Shellac primer can sometimes dry with a slightly rough texture. To achieve a smooth base, sand it down with 320-grit sandpaper. Wipe the surface clean with naphtha to remove any sanding dust, and repeat the priming and sanding process. After a couple of rounds, you’ll have a smooth, uniform white surface, perfectly prepped for the color coats.
Primed with BINS and ready for action
When applying color coats, the technique is crucial. Some experts recommend light coats, while others advocate for heavier applications. Through experimentation, it’s been observed that excessively light coats can lead to “overspray,” where the paint dries before hitting the surface, or “orange peel,” a textured finish resulting from paint drying before it fully levels. Both issues necessitate sanding and starting over. Conversely, overly heavy coats risk paint runs, also demanding time-consuming repairs. The sweet spot is achieving a “wet” coat that flows smoothly but stops short of running. Practice your spraying technique on scrap wood beforehand to develop confidence and control.
Resources like the Guitar ReRanch website, particularly their ReRanch 101 guide, offer invaluable insights into guitar painting processes. While they sell lacquer-based paints, hobby store spray paints can also yield excellent results for DIY projects and are often more budget-friendly.
Between each color coat, inspect for dust and imperfections. Gently sand out any rough spots using #600 wet sandpaper. Exercise caution to avoid sanding through the color layers, even with fine sandpaper. Apply around four color coats, allowing approximately three hours of drying time between each. Drying times can fluctuate based on paint thickness and humidity levels.
For the clear coats, nitrocellulose lacquer is a favored choice. Nitro lacquer is user-friendly, known for its smooth flow and self-leveling properties. Any minor imperfections are easily sanded out. This characteristic made nitrocellulose lacquer popular in automotive repair shops in its heyday.
Emulating the ReRanch “rule of threes,” apply three coats of clear lacquer daily, with a minimum three-hour drying interval between coats, for three days – totaling nine coats. As with the color coats, check for dust and smooth out any imperfections in each clear coat with #600 wet sandpaper. After applying all clear coats, allow the body to cure for at least two weeks. Nitrocellulose lacquer benefits significantly from extended curing times, hardening and improving its gloss over time.
Polishing typically involves progressively finer grades of wet sandpaper. Micromesh, a specialized abrasive paper and pad system, presents an alternative. Micromesh is reputed to last longer, produce a superior finish, and can be used both wet and dry. Micromesh sets, ranging from #1,500 to #12,000 grit, are available at woodworking stores. Soaking the micromesh in water with a touch of Murphy’s oil soap overnight before use is recommended. Caution: When wet-sanding, prevent water from entering screw holes and cavities, as it can cause wood swelling and finish damage.
Initially, #1,500-grit micromesh might seem more abrasive than expected, potentially leaving fine scratches. However, as you progress through the finer grits, these scratches diminish and eventually vanish. By the #12,000-grit stage, the finish will exhibit a beautiful, warm sheen. Micromesh is more efficient than traditional sandpaper and boasts greater durability, often reusable after cleaning. The final surface will be remarkably smooth, comparable to a factory finish.
Sanded to #12000 micromesh
As a final touch, buff the finish with a fine automotive polishing compound, followed by a liquid car wax. This brings out a deep, mirror-like shine, enhancing the vibrancy of your Shell Pink finish.
Mirror image in the finish!
Reassemble your bass, incorporating personalized elements like a vintage-style finger rest or a custom headstock decal. This project demonstrates that achieving a professional-looking, funky vintage finish on your electric bass is within reach, even on a budget. The transformation from a plain instrument to a visually striking, Shell Pink beauty is incredibly satisfying.
Pretty in Pink!
Head with strings
Explore Further: From Junky to Funky – Part 1
