Navigating the intricate tapestry of Japan, from bustling Osaka to serene Beppu, offers a unique backdrop for any journey. For jazz guitarist Joshua Breakstone, this journey wasn’t just geographical; it was a melodic exploration of Japan’s vibrant jazz scene in October 2020. After a year residing in Kyoto and a subsequent US tour promoting his album “Children of Art,” Breakstone returned to a Japan cautiously emerging into a new normal. This is his story of traversing Japan, guitar in hand, encountering warmth and musical connection at every stop.
Breakstone’s return to Japan in March 2020 proved fortuitous, narrowly preceding border closures. An intended three-month hiatus from public performances in San Diego morphed into a period of unexpected quietude. This pause, initially for personal projects and mental preparation for a busy Japanese schedule, became a prolonged intermission as Japan, while spared the worst of the pandemic’s initial onslaught, exercised profound caution. Enclosed spaces like jazz clubs felt the chill.
His re-entry into live performance occurred in late June, a short two-night stint marking seven months away from the stage. July brought tours to Tokyo and Sapporo, gradually re-immersing him in Japan’s jazz circuit as venues adapted with social distancing, masks, and ubiquitous sanitizers.
Currently en route from Osaka to Okayama by bus, Breakstone reflects on the journey. Why the bus over the Shinkansen bullet train? Practicality meets opportunity. The bus, significantly cheaper, also offers Wi-Fi and uninterrupted time for digital housekeeping – a perpetual challenge for touring musicians. The 3.5-hour journey aligns perfectly with hotel check-in before his evening performance at “Bird,” an Okayama jazz institution. Timing, indeed, is everything.
Joshua Breakstone October Jazz Tour
“Bird,” nestled on the second floor near Okayama station, reveals itself as a spacious venue by Japanese standards. Warm woodwork and tables create an inviting ambiance, accommodating perhaps 50-60 patrons. Breakstone’s trio, featuring bassist Akahoshi Keita and drummer Morishita Kei, delivers a memorable performance in this venerable space.
The adjacent, unassuming hotel, though “grimy” in Breakstone’s words, provides a quintessentially Japanese touch: a constant jazz soundtrack. Kenny Burrell upon check-in, Freddie Hubbard’s “You’re My Everything” en route to “Bird,” and Sonny Stitt at breakfast – a gentle reminder of the pervasive appreciation for jazz throughout Japan, even in unexpected corners.
A local bus then carries him towards Matsuyama on Shikoku island, destination “Gretsch,” another storied “livehouse.” “Gretsch” awaits, promising another chapter in this on-the-road narrative.
Gretsch Sign in Matsuyama
Matsuyama’s hotel presented a surprise – no shower. However, in this onsen (hot springs) city, home to the famed Dogo Onsen, the omission was understandable, even welcome. Breakstone embraced the local sento (public bath) experience. From shoe lockers to clothing lockers, the ritual unfolded. Three tubs beckoned: a scorching 42°C massage jet bath, a milder natural spring water bath, and a bracing cold plunge. Pre-soak scrub stations, complete with amenities, ensured pristine immersion. The sento delivered profound relaxation and a unique cultural immersion.
Originally booked for a standard performance at “Gretsch,” the engagement evolved. Facing pandemic-era audience uncertainties, the club owner, Takahashi-san, proposed a jam session. While not Breakstone’s usual preference, a desire to support “Gretsch” and maintain the date led to an affirmative.
The jam session proved surprisingly vibrant. A modest initial turnout swelled as musicians arrived, saxophones emerged, and a dynamic collective assembled. Three drummers, three bassists, two pianists, and three saxophonists contributed to the energetic improvisation. Remarkably, listening was as prominent as playing. Musicians intently followed each other’s contributions, fostering a collaborative and appreciative atmosphere. The session extended late into the night, concluding with fist bumps – the pandemic-era handshake – and a sense of shared musical camaraderie. Kyushu island and Beppu, another onsen haven, beckoned next.
Ferry to Kyushu Island
A tranquil three-hour ferry journey bridged Shikoku and Kyushu, delivering Breakstone to Beppu. A swift hotel check-in and shower preceded a pickup by bassist and promoter Kimura Hideo. Oita City, a short drive away, hosted a guitar workshop for eager local enthusiasts. An hour of discussion and interaction culminated in a 30-minute duo performance with Kimura-san.
Post-workshop, Kimura-san introduced Breakstone to a local Beppu culinary gem – a restaurant specializing in fish, rice, and sake. Culinary contentment reached new heights with the hotel bath overlooking the marina – a truly heavenly conclusion to the day. Beppu itself would host the next performance, conveniently located near the hotel.
Beppu mornings commenced with an elaborate hotel buffet breakfast. Masks, sanitizer, and plastic gloves were prerequisites, a testament to the ongoing precautions. Yet, the breakfast, enjoyed with Pacific Ocean views, was a delight. Lunch offered okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake, customized with shrimp, pork, cabbage, and mystery vegetables, enhanced by a flavorful sauce.
“Funk,” the Beppu venue, despite its name, boasted a 40-year jazz-only history. Initial audience concerns proved unfounded as a steady stream of attendees filled the club by showtime. An intensely focused audience created an immersive musical environment. Post-performance elation and new friendships led to late-night sushi, sashimi, and sake. Miyazaki, a 3.5-hour drive, was the next destination.
Lifetime Jazz Club Sign
Miyazaki’s “Lifetime” club immediately resonated with Breakstone. A signed Sonny Rollins poster and photos of Rollins practicing on Miyazaki beach signaled a deep-seated jazz appreciation. Warm interactions with local musicians, including several guitarists, enriched the visit. However, the 3.5-hour return drive underscored the demands of touring. Oita and “Naima” were next, a welcome shorter commute.
“Naima,” a genuine jazz haven within the owner’s home, radiated warmth. The familiar Sonny Rollins poster, this time unsigned, adorned the walls alongside jazz periodicals and CDs. A friendly calico cat added to the cozy ambiance. An audience comprising numerous guitarists and dedicated jazz fans filled the intimate space. Pre- and post-performance meals highlighted the club’s hospitality. “Naima” embodied the welcoming spirit of local Japanese jazz clubs. Nakatsu and “Choiwaru Usagi” (“The Bad Bunny”) were the subsequent stop.
“Choiwaru Usagi” in Nakatsu offered a deeply local jazz experience. Friendly patrons, many of whom were musicians, created an engaged atmosphere. Despite Nakatsu’s remote location, Kimura-san’s local expertise ensured smooth navigation. Pin-drop silence during performances underscored the audience’s attentiveness. Conversations with a pianist, drummer, vocalist, and harmonica player revealed shared musical passions. A post-show ramen stop elevated the evening, delivering an unexpectedly sublime culinary experience. Fukuoka, a major city, awaited, marking the end of Kimura-san’s invaluable tour companionship.
Joshua Breakstone and Kimura Hideo at Naima
Fukuoka’s “Golby” club, a renowned venue, provided a memorable first Fukuoka night. The club’s enigmatic name prompted inquiry. The masked owner, removing his mask, revealed the inspiration: a perceived resemblance to Mikhail Gorbachev! The humor of a slender Japanese man invoking the former Soviet president’s image was not lost on Breakstone.
Fukuoka’s second night unfolded in Kurume at “Vino and Dig,” owned by bassist Nakase Tooru. Playing with Nakase-san was always anticipated. The small, intimate club fostered focused listening. Post-performance, three local guitarists joined Breakstone for duets. The club’s name, a fusion of the owners’ previous venues “Vinoteque” and “Dig,” encapsulated a personal history.
The final Fukuoka engagements occurred at “Cafe Style Jam.” The first night featured young bassist Ono Toshitaka. The tour’s concluding night reunited Breakstone with Nakase-san and vocalists Inoue Aly and Kobayashi Setsuko. Duets with Nakase-san and songs with each singer filled a packed house. Post-concert wontons from a local Chinese restaurant provided a delicious finale. The subway ride home marked the tour’s end.
Aboard the Shinkansen, speeding towards Kyoto, Breakstone reflects on the whirlwind tour. The bullet train’s comfort mirrored the smooth flow of musical connections and Japanese hospitality encountered throughout his journey. A return to these regions in March is anticipated, fueled by the prospect of reconnecting with friends, exploring new venues, and, above all, making music.
UPDATE: An upcoming livestream concert with pianist Phillip Strange, featuring the music of Duke Ellington and Thelonious Monk, is announced.
Livestream Concert Link: https://20201211theduo.peatix.com/
