Every guitarist, regardless of their unique style, tone preferences, or gear choices, shares a common necessity: the inevitable task of changing guitar strings. As someone deeply involved in guitar making and repair, I’ve witnessed a wide spectrum of stringing approaches, ranging from ineffective to downright bizarre. My fingers bear the marks of countless encounters with sharp, rusty string ends, a testament to the need for tetanus shots. Often, removing old strings proves to be a more time-consuming endeavor than installing a fresh set.
Surprisingly, many guitarists, even seasoned players with decades of experience, hesitate to change their own strings. This reluctance often stems from a fear of damaging their instrument. To demystify this process and make it more enjoyable, this guide provides essential information about restringing, along with practical tips gleaned from years of hands-on experience.
When Should You Change Your Acoustic Guitar Strings?
A frequent question from novice guitarists revolves around the optimal frequency for string changes. However, there’s no definitive answer to this, as string lifespan is influenced by several variables, including playing style, how often you play, and your individual body chemistry. Some players with highly acidic sweat can degrade a set of strings within just 30 minutes, while others can extend the life of a set for months.
In my workshop, a practical guideline for string replacement is based on visible signs of wear and tear. If strings exhibit accumulated grime or gunk, particularly on the underside facing the fretboard, or if the wound strings show dents or wear marks from fret contact, it’s time for a change. Some guitarists prize the bright, resonant sound of new strings, while others favor the mellow, balanced tone of strings that have been played in a bit. Learning to recognize the ideal lifespan of your strings is crucial for selecting the best set to match your playing needs and sonic preferences.
Avoiding Common Mistakes When Restringing
One common and easily avoidable mistake during restringing is losing small, crucial parts. Many components on an acoustic guitar are held in place solely by string tension. Bridge pins, the saddle, the nut, and tuner bushings (the small metal sleeves around the tuner posts) are often loose, especially on older instruments. These parts can easily detach and go missing when strings are removed. Searching for these tiny components under furniture can be frustrating, which is why I always recommend working on a clean, uncluttered surface.
Don’t Lose Parts!
Archtop Bridge Caution
For archtop guitars, the bridge is always kept in position by string tension alone. When restringing an archtop, carefully note the bridge’s placement to ensure correct repositioning. A helpful trick is to use de-tacked masking tape. Lightly stick a piece of masking tape to your shirt to reduce its stickiness before applying it to the guitar top on either side of the bridge. Make a small pencil mark aligning with the front edge of the bridge on each piece of tape. This ensures you can precisely reposition the bridge during restringing.
Anchoring Strings Correctly
To avoid losing bridge pins and for overall convenience, I prefer to secure all strings at the bridge or tailpiece first, before winding them onto the tuner posts. It’s crucial to ensure the ball ends of the strings are properly anchored. In pin-style bridges, ball ends can sometimes dangle below the bridge plate, causing rattling noises. Insert the string ball into its designated hole and loosely insert the bridge pin. Gently pull up on the string until you feel the ball end seat firmly against the bridge plate (the underside of the guitar top), then firmly press the pin into place. For guitars with tailpieces, double-check each string’s anchor point before increasing string tension, as ball ends can slip out during installation more easily with tailpieces.
The Foolproof Z-Bend Stringing Technique
When I first learned to change strings, I was taught a somewhat intricate method. This technique involved tucking the free end of the string under the first wrap on the tuner post, aiming to lock it and prevent slippage. It took me years to master this without creating slack in the loops, and removing old strings was always a hassle. Strings often broke at the tuner post, leaving sharp, small rings of string stuck in the holes, requiring pliers for removal – definitely not enjoyable.
At Veillette Guitars, my first job, I learned a much simpler and now preferred method: the Z-bend technique. I’ve successfully used this technique on a wide range of strings, from very light .007 gauge strings at high tension to heavy .095 sub-bass strings. This method has consistently provided a secure hold without slippage. Even when tuned to their breaking point, strings would snap before the windings would slip.
The core principle of the Z-bend technique is to create opposing kinks on each side of the tuner post. Simply insert the string through the tuner post hole, leaving a bit of slack between the nut and bridge (enough to fit about four fingers between the string and fretboard when stretched). Then, simultaneously bend the string on both sides of the post to form a Z shape through the hole. (For bass-side strings, bend both sides clockwise). Clip off the excess string end and wind the slack onto the tuning post. Ensure each wrap winds below the previous one, gradually moving the string closer to the headstock with each turn.
With the correct slack, you should have approximately two to three wraps for heavier strings and up to five wraps for thinner strings. Too many wraps can lead to tuning instability as wraps can pile up and wind unevenly. Too few wraps can cause string slippage, regardless of the winding technique.
Stringing with the Z-bend is faster than any other method I’ve encountered, and it has proven incredibly reliable over countless string changes. Strings are easily removed from tuner posts, and even if they break at the post, the remnants simply fall out without needing tools. I have, in the past, struggled with strings that were double-threaded, knotted, twisted, or even glued to tuner posts. Whether you prefer to change your strings yourself or have a tech do it, this simple and reliable Z-bend method makes the process much more dependable and enjoyable.
Changing your acoustic guitar strings doesn’t have to be a daunting task. With the right knowledge and technique, it can become a routine part of guitar maintenance, enhancing your playing experience and keeping your instrument sounding its best. Embrace the process, and enjoy the fresh, vibrant sound of your newly strung acoustic guitar!
