Every guitarist, regardless of their unique style, tone preferences, or gear choices, shares a common necessity: changing guitar strings. As someone who has spent years building and repairing guitars, I’ve witnessed countless stringing methods, ranging from the ineffective to the downright bizarre. I’ve also experienced my fair share of finger pricks from sharp, rusty string ends. More often than not, removing old strings can take longer than installing a fresh set.
It’s surprising how many experienced guitarists are still hesitant to change their own strings. Many fear causing damage to their instrument. This guide aims to demystify the process, making it not only easier but also enjoyable. We’ll cover the basics of restringing and share some helpful tips learned through years of experience.
Knowing When It’s Time for New Strings
A common question from beginner guitarists is, “How often should I change my strings?” Unfortunately, there’s no single answer. The lifespan of guitar strings depends on various factors including your playing style, how frequently you play, and even your body chemistry (specifically, sweat). Some players with acidic sweat can corrode a set of strings in just 30 minutes, while others can play for months without needing a change.
Generally, a good indicator is to check for visible grime or buildup on the strings, particularly on the underside facing the fretboard. For wound strings, look for dents or wear marks over the frets. Some guitarists prefer the bright, crisp sound of new strings, while others favor the warmer, more mellow tone of strings that have been played for a while. Finding your personal “sweet spot” in a string set’s life is key to choosing the best strings for your needs.
Avoiding Common String Changing Mistakes
One frequent mistake during restringing is losing small, but crucial parts. Many guitar components are held in place by string tension alone. Bridge pins, saddles, nuts, and tuner bushings (the metal sleeves around tuner posts) can easily fall off, especially on older guitars, once the strings are removed. These tiny parts can be incredibly difficult to find if dropped, which is why working on a clean, uncluttered table is always recommended.
For archtop guitars, the bridge is exclusively held by string tension. When restringing an archtop, carefully note the bridge’s position before removing the strings. A simple trick is to use masking tape to mark the bridge placement. Before applying tape, slightly de-tack it by sticking it to your clothing first. Place a small piece of tape on each side of the bridge with a pencil mark aligning to the bridge’s edge. This ensures you can reposition the bridge accurately during restringing.
To minimize lost pins and for convenience, I prefer to secure all strings at the bridge or tailpiece first, before winding them onto the tuner posts. Ensure the ball ends are correctly seated. In pin-style bridges, ball ends can sometimes dangle below the bridge plate, causing unwanted buzzing sounds. Insert the string ball into its designated hole and loosely insert the pin. Gently pull the string upwards until you feel the ball end firmly seat against the bridge plate (inside the guitar body), then firmly press the pin into place. For guitars with tailpieces, double-check each string’s anchor point before tightening, as ball ends are more prone to slipping out during installation in this type of system.
The Foolproof Z-Bend Stringing Technique
When I first learned to change strings, the method involved tucking the string’s free end under the initial tuner post wrap to prevent slippage. Mastering this technique without creating slack in the loops took me years. Removing old strings was also challenging, as they often broke at the post, leaving sharp string rings stuck in the tuner holes, requiring pliers to remove. It wasn’t an enjoyable process.
However, at Veillette Guitars, I discovered a much simpler and now my preferred method. This technique, known as the “Z-bend,” works reliably for everything from very light gauge strings at high tension to heavy gauge sub-bass strings. Strings strung using this method will break before the windings slip, even when tuned to their breaking point.
The Z-bend method is based on creating opposing kinks on each side of the tuner post. Here’s how:
- Insert the String: Thread the string through the tuner post hole.
- Leave Slack: Pull the string through, leaving some slack between the nut and bridge – enough to fit about four fingers between the string and fretboard when stretched.
- Create the Z-Bend: Simultaneously bend the string on both sides of the tuner post to form a “Z” shape through the hole. (For bass-side strings, bend both sides clockwise).
- Clip the Excess: Cut off the excess string end.
- Wind the String: Wind the string onto the tuning post, ensuring each wrap goes below the previous one, moving the string closer to the headstock with each turn.
With the correct slack, you should have about two to three wraps for heavier strings and up to five wraps for thinner strings. Too many wraps can cause tuning instability due to uneven winding. Too few wraps might lead to slippage.
Stringing with the Z-bend is faster than other methods I’ve encountered and has proven consistently reliable over countless string changes. Strings are easily removed from the posts, and broken ends simply fall out without tools. Over the years, I’ve dealt with strings that were double-threaded, knotted, twisted, and even glued – all unnecessary with this simple approach. Whether you change your strings yourself or have a tech do it, the foolproof Z-bend method makes the process much more reliable and enjoyable.
This article is based on expertise and experience in guitar maintenance and aims to provide helpful, accurate information for guitar players looking to improve their string changing skills.
