Every guitarist, regardless of their individual style, preferred gear, or unique playing nuances, shares a common necessity: the periodic changing of guitar strings. Throughout my years as a guitar maker and repair technician, I’ve witnessed countless approaches to stringing guitars, ranging from the simply ineffective to the downright bizarre. I’ve experienced my fair share of finger pricks from sharp, rusty string ends, leading to a near-constant need for tetanus boosters, and often spent more time wrestling with the remnants of old strings than actually installing a fresh set.
It’s surprising how many guitarists, even seasoned players with decades of experience, hesitate to change their own strings. This reluctance often stems from a fear of doing something incorrectly and potentially damaging their beloved instrument. To demystify this process and make it a more enjoyable part of guitar ownership, this guide will walk you through the essential steps of restringing your acoustic guitar, along with valuable tips I’ve learned through years of hands-on experience.
When Should You Change Your Acoustic Guitar Strings?
One of the most frequent questions I encounter from beginner guitarists is, “How often should I change my strings?” The truth is, there’s no definitive answer. The lifespan of guitar strings is influenced by a variety of factors, including your playing style, how frequently you play, and even your body chemistry. Some players with more acidic sweat can corrode a set of strings in a matter of hours, while others can extend the life of a set for months without issue.
Generally, in my repair shop, I recommend changing acoustic guitar strings if they exhibit visible signs of wear and tear. This includes any noticeable grime or buildup, particularly on the underside of the string facing the fretboard. For wound strings, keep an eye out for dents or flattened areas directly over the frets.
Ultimately, your personal preference also plays a role. Some guitarists crave the bright, crisp tone of brand-new strings, while others prefer the warmer, more mellow sound that develops as strings age. Experimenting to find the “sweet spot” in a set of strings’ lifespan is key to determining the best change frequency for your needs and desired tone.
Avoiding Common Mistakes When Restringing
Restringing your acoustic guitar is generally straightforward, but there are a few common pitfalls to be aware of to ensure a smooth process and avoid potential headaches.
Don’t Lose Parts!
A frequent and easily avoidable mistake is losing small, crucial guitar parts during the restringing process. Many components on an acoustic guitar are held in place primarily by string tension. Bridge pins, the saddle, the nut, and tuner bushings (the small metal rings around the tuning pegs) can be loose, especially on older instruments. When you remove the strings, these parts can easily fall off and become misplaced. These tiny pieces can be incredibly frustrating to search for, often disappearing under furniture or in hard-to-reach corners. To prevent this, always work on a clean, uncluttered table or workspace where you can easily keep track of all parts.
Archtop Bridge Caution
If you are restringing an archtop acoustic guitar, exercise extra caution with the bridge. Unlike bridges on many other acoustic guitars, an archtop bridge is typically held in place solely by string tension. When you remove the strings, the bridge will become completely loose and can move or fall off. Before removing the old strings from an archtop, carefully note the exact position of the bridge on the guitar top. A helpful trick is to use a small piece of easily removable masking tape to mark the bridge’s location. Apply a piece of tape on either side of the bridge and use a pencil to mark the bridge’s edge on the tape. This ensures you can precisely reposition the bridge in its correct location after restringing, maintaining proper intonation and playability.
Anchoring Strings Correctly
When installing new strings, especially on acoustic guitars with bridge pins or tailpieces, proper anchoring of the string ball ends is crucial. For guitars with bridge pins, it’s possible for the ball end of the string to dangle below the bridge plate inside the guitar body if not seated correctly. This can lead to unwanted buzzing or rattling noises. To avoid this, insert the string ball into its designated hole in the bridge, and loosely insert the bridge pin. Then, gently pull upwards on the string until you feel the ball end seat firmly against the bridge plate (the underside of the guitar top). Once you feel the ball end is secure, push the bridge pin firmly into place.
For acoustic guitars equipped with a tailpiece, double-check each string’s anchor point on the tailpiece before bringing the string up to full tension. Ball ends on tailpiece guitars can sometimes slip out of their grooves during installation if not properly seated. Ensuring they are securely anchored before tuning up will prevent slippage and ensure proper string tension.
Learn A Foolproof Approach: The Z-Bend Method
When I first learned to change guitar strings, I was taught a somewhat intricate technique that involved tucking the free end of the string underneath the first winding on the tuner post. The idea was to “lock” the string to prevent slippage. It took me considerable time and practice to master this method without creating slack in the string windings, and removing old strings from the tuners was often a struggle. Strings frequently broke at the tuner post, leaving sharp, tiny rings of string stuck in the post holes, requiring pliers to remove – a far from enjoyable process.
Early in my career at Veillette Guitars, I was introduced to a far simpler and more effective method, which has since become my preferred technique for restringing any guitar. This method, which I call the “Z-bend” technique, has proven incredibly reliable for everything from delicate .007 gauge strings under high tension to massive .095 gauge sub-bass strings. Even when tuned to their breaking point, strings installed with the Z-bend method consistently snap before the windings ever slip on the tuner post.
The core principle of the Z-bend method is to create opposing kinks in the string on either side of the tuner post hole. Simply insert the string through the hole in the tuner post, pulling it through and leaving a small amount of slack in the string – roughly enough to fit four fingers between the string and the fretboard when stretched above the soundhole. Next, simultaneously bend the string on both sides of the tuner post hole, creating a “Z” shape. (For bass-side strings, bend both sides clockwise). After bending, clip off the excess string extending beyond the tuner post. Finally, wind the string onto the tuning post, ensuring that each new wrap winds below the previous one. This directs the string downwards on the post, increasing the break angle at the nut and improving tuning stability.
With the correct amount of slack, you should end up with approximately two to three wraps around the tuner post for the thicker, lower-pitched strings, and no more than three to five wraps for the thinner, higher-pitched strings. Excessive wraps around the tuner post can lead to tuning instability, as the wraps can pile up unevenly and bind against each other. Conversely, too few wraps can increase the risk of string slippage, regardless of the winding technique used.
Stringing your acoustic guitar using the simple Z-bend method is not only faster than other techniques I’ve encountered, but it has also proven to be exceptionally reliable over countless string changes. Removing old strings from the tuner posts is also significantly easier with this method. Even if a string breaks at the post, the remaining end typically falls right out of the hole without the need for any tools. Over the years, I’ve encountered strings that were double-threaded through the post, knotted, twisted, and even glued in place – all unnecessary complications. Whether you prefer to change your own strings or have a technician do it, mastering this simple and foolproof Z-bend approach will make the process far more reliable, efficient, and even enjoyable.
