Ooooooooh, hold on a second before you dismiss the idea of a used guitar. In fact, you might want to completely flip your thinking on its head. If someone offered me two guitars, identical in every way except one was fresh off the factory line and the other had been lovingly played for three decades, I’d actually be reaching deeper into my pocket for the used one. Let me walk you through eight compelling reasons why a 2nd Hand Acoustic Guitar could be the smartest choice you make for your music.
The Wood Whispers Secrets of Time: Matured Tone in Aged Instruments
When you pick up a brand new acoustic guitar, you’re also signing up for a period of careful climate control, especially in the first few years. Why the fuss? Because the wood is still in the process of settling and curing. Proper wood curing is so crucial that expertly aged wood commands a premium price. Consider the legendary old-growth wood salvaged from the depths of the Great Lakes – it’s incredibly expensive precisely because of this aging process. Some even speculate that master luthier Stradivarius aged his violin wood underwater, believing it allowed for a slower moisture loss and beneficial effects from anaerobic bacteria. While I admire the dedication, I’m not quite ready to wait decades for my guitar to mature – a 2nd hand instrument offers a shortcut to that rich, aged tone. You might not immediately hear a massive difference as a beginner, but the seasoned player and your ears over time definitely will.
Significantly Lighter on Your Wallet: The Cost-Effective Advantage
Let’s talk brass tacks: 2nd hand acoustic guitars are generally a lot more affordable. It’s not unusual to find them priced at 50% or even less than their original retail value. Take the Tacoma PK30, for example, which retails around $1469 USD online. You can often find similar models on platforms like eBay, sometimes with minor cosmetic imperfections, for around $750. That’s practically a new guitar at half the cost! My own 1979 Fylde Orsino, a guitar with incredible depth and character, cost me a mere $300 used. A new equivalent today would easily set you back $1500 or more. And to achieve the tonal complexity my 25-year-old guitar possesses, you’d likely need to invest $2000-$3000 in a brand new instrument. These are real-world retail figures, folks.
To better understand the used guitar market, I categorize “used” guitars into four main types: Old Used, New Used, Refurbished, and Needs Work.
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Old Used: These guitars are veterans, at least 10 years old or more. They come with a story. They weren’t just traded in for the latest model craze. Most have been gently played, or perhaps played enthusiastically and then stored away. This category is where the real treasures and best value lie.
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New Used: These are younger instruments, less than five years old. Think of the classic “bought it for my kid, and they lost interest” scenario. Or the “I thought a better guitar would magically make me a virtuoso” type. These are often entry-level to mid-range guitars. Still, you can snag some very good deals here.
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Refurbished: These are factory seconds or trade-ins that have been expertly repaired by reputable dealers, like the folks at guitarweb on eBay. This is a fantastic avenue for near-new models at discounted prices. If you’re going the eBay route, always prioritize sellers with overwhelmingly positive feedback.
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Needs Work: Generally, it’s wise to steer clear of these unless you spot a truly exceptional find, like a pre-war Martin requiring a neck reset priced at a steal. In such cases, factor in the repair costs and take it to a trusted luthier. Another instance where “needs work” guitars can be worthwhile is for specialty instruments, such as vintage archtop jazz guitars that might need some love to sing again.
The Secret Life of Guitars: Often Underplayed, Rarely Abused
The truth is, most guitars simply don’t get played as much as their owners initially intend. Many people start learning guitar with enthusiasm, only to have life, work, or other hobbies take over. While concrete statistics are hard to come by, it’s safe to assume that a vast number of guitars are sitting idle in closets, basements, and attics, gathering dust rather than being played. Wouldn’t it be incredible to stumble upon a vintage Fender Stratocaster that was only ever taken out for Sunday church services? Buying used gives you access to this pool of gently used – or barely used – instruments.
Timeless Design: Acoustic Guitar Evolution is Gradual
Acoustic guitar design hasn’t undergone radical transformations in the last 30 years, if at all. While pickup technology and onboard electronics have evolved, the fundamental construction and design of acoustic guitars have remained remarkably consistent. This means a well-built 2nd hand acoustic guitar from a few decades ago is often comparable in design and construction to a brand new model. You’re paying for craftsmanship and materials, not necessarily the “latest” features that are often marketing driven.
The Rewarding Ritual of Revival: Making a Used Guitar Your Own
There’s a unique satisfaction in bringing a 2nd hand acoustic guitar home and giving it a new lease of life. Taking off the old strings, carefully cleaning the fretboard and body, perhaps vacuuming out dust from inside the soundhole, and then restringing it with a fresh set – it’s a ritual of renewal. Hearing that first chord ring out on a revitalized instrument is incredibly rewarding and creates a personal connection with your guitar.
Vintage, Not Just Used: Guitars That Improve With Age
Used guitars are not like used cars that depreciate and wear down. In many ways, they are more akin to fine vintage wine or premium cigars – they often get better with age. The wood matures, the tone opens up, and the instrument develops character over time.
For example, a quick online search will reveal vintage guitars like a 1943 Martin listed for significant sums, sometimes reaching into the hundreds of thousands of dollars for exceptionally rare models. While these are extreme examples, they illustrate the point that vintage guitars can appreciate in value and offer a richness of tone that newer instruments simply can’t replicate.
Access to Lost Forests: Rare Tonewoods in Older Guitars
Many older guitars were crafted using tonewoods that are now either endangered or no longer readily available. Brazilian Rosewood, for instance, is now heavily restricted and primarily found in three-piece backs on new guitars. Solid Brazilian Rosewood backs are incredibly rare and command very high prices. However, in the 2nd hand market, you can still find guitars from past eras crafted with these now-scarce, highly prized woods, offering tonal qualities unmatched by modern alternatives. If you appreciate the unique sonic characteristics of these woods, the used market is often your only accessible option without spending a fortune.
The Handcrafted Legacy: The Value of Luthier Attention
Many older guitars, particularly from smaller workshops or certain eras, were often more handmade than today’s mass-produced instruments. Why is this significant? Because each instrument received individual attention at every stage of construction. Luthiers would tap the soundboards, listening to ensure the wood resonated correctly across the entire top – a practice still employed in high-end, boutique guitar making. This level of individual craftsmanship is less common in large-scale factory production. With a 2nd hand acoustic guitar, especially from certain brands and eras, you might be acquiring an instrument with a level of handcrafted detail and sonic refinement that’s hard to find in modern equivalents at the same price point.
Okay, let’s assume I’ve convinced you to at least consider the 2nd hand route. What should you carefully examine to ensure a used guitar is in good playing condition and a worthwhile investment? Here’s a checklist of ten crucial points:
Ten Key Checks for a 2nd Hand Acoustic Guitar
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Visual Inspection: Give the guitar a thorough visual once-over. Does it look like it has been treated with care? Does it show signs of being played but still in good overall condition? A well-cared-for guitar will usually reflect this in its appearance. Personally, I prefer guitars that show a little “played-in” character, as it suggests it was owned by a guitarist who actually cared for it.
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Sound Check – Play Every Note: Methodically play every note on every fret of every string. Listen for any buzzing or “fretting out,” where notes die out prematurely. This could indicate uneven frets requiring a fret job, or in more serious cases, a potential neck reset. Bend strings across the fretboard and again, listen for consistent tone and sustain across all frets, paying particular attention to the frets closer to the soundhole end of the fretboard.
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Neck Assessment – Five Crucial Tests:
- (a) Sight Down the Neck: Hold the guitar as if to play and sight down the neck from the headstock towards the body. The neck should appear reasonably straight. A slight bow is acceptable and often desirable for optimal playability, but avoid necks with significant bowing or warping. A noticeable hump where the fretboard meets the body is a red flag. Also, check for any twisting of the neck from side to side.
- (b) String Height Check (Relief): Hold down the low E string at the first fret and where the neck joins the body (usually around the 12th or 14th fret). Look at the string clearance above the 6th fret. You should see just a sliver of light – ideally, enough space to barely fit a very thin guitar pick or business card. If the gap is significantly larger, it may indicate excessive neck relief or potential setup issues.
- (c) Neck Joint Stability: Gently try to move the neck back and forth, and up and down, where it joins the body. The neck joint should feel solid and stable with no discernible movement. A slight flex is normal, but the neck socket should feel firmly attached to the body.
- (d) Neck Joint Flushness: Examine the neck joint where it meets the body. It should ideally be flush and even, without significant gaps or unevenness.
- (e) Fretboard Extension Joint: Check the joint where the fretboard extension meets the guitar top. It should be snug and well-fitted, without gaps or lifting.
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Truss Rod Check: Confirm that the guitar neck has a truss rod (most modern steel-string acoustics do). While “reinforced necks” can be found on older instruments, a truss rod allows for neck adjustments to fine-tune playability.
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Bridge Area and Top Contour: Inspect the guitar top both in front of and behind the bridge. Both areas should be relatively flat. If the top bulges upwards significantly behind the bridge or sinks inwards in front of it, it could indicate structural issues. Some minor bulging and sinking is normal and expected over time, but the distortion should be less than about half the height of the bridge. Excessive distortion can be a sign of more serious problems.
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Action Height at the 12th Fret: Assess the string height (action) at the 12th fret. Is it comfortable for your playing style? If not, proceed to the next check.
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Bridge and Saddle Examination: Check the saddle (the strip of material in the bridge that the strings rest on) and the bridge itself. Is there room to lower the saddle further if needed to reduce string action? Is there also potential to lower the bridge height if necessary? If both the saddle and bridge are already at their lowest possible positions, and the action is still too high, it strongly suggests the neck likely needs a reset – a more involved and costly repair. Also, check the saddle for deep grooves worn by the strings, which can also indicate a need for a neck reset.
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Crack Assessment: Small, hairline finish cracks (often called “checking”) are generally not a major concern and are common in older guitars. Larger, structural cracks, especially in the top, back, or sides, require careful evaluation. Minor cracks can often be repaired relatively inexpensively, but assess the extent and location of any cracks.
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Brace Integrity (Creaking Test): Gently apply light pressure across the guitar top, listening carefully for any creaking or popping sounds. These sounds could indicate loose or unglued braces inside the guitar, which are important for structural integrity and sound.
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Listen to the Overall Tone: Try to disregard the existing strings, as they are likely old and dull. Listen to the inherent tone of the guitar itself. Does it sound like a new set of strings would make it sing and come alive? If you are seriously considering purchasing the guitar, ask the seller if they would put on a fresh set of strings. If not, consider buying a set yourself – a small investment to properly evaluate the instrument.
Keep in mind that some of the issues listed above might be acceptable to you, especially if you are comfortable with minor repairs or are looking for a project guitar. I have personally bought guitars with necks that needed resetting, knowing that the repair cost would be worthwhile for the instrument itself. Factor in potential repair costs like neck resets, fretwork, or crack repairs when negotiating the price.
Brands to Seek Out (and Some to Consider Carefully) in the 2nd Hand Market
When venturing into the world of 2nd hand acoustic guitars, knowing which brands to consider can be helpful. Here are some brand categories to guide your search:
Lesser Known Gems (Often Great Value): Fylde, Grammer, Springhill (by Fender), Mossman (pre-1976), Weymann, Marwin, National, Vega, Washburn (particularly models from the 1930s and 40s).
Well-Regarded and Often Excellent: Guild, Epiphone (especially archtops), Kay (archtops), Gretsch, Yamaha (LL series), Gibson, Takamine (higher-end models), Alvarez (higher-end models).
Highly Sought After (Bargains are Rarer): Martin, Taylor.
High-End Boutique (Potential for Good Deals Used): Everett, C. Fox, Froggy Bottom, Lowden, Huss and Dalton, Northwood, Lakewood, Brook, McIlroy, Breedlove.
Brands to Approach with Caution (or Maybe Avoid):
- Older Ovations (with exceptions): While newer Ovations can be good, older models with their composite backs may not age as gracefully as all-wood guitars in terms of tone. Refurbished newer Ovations could be worth considering.
- Mid-1970s Fender Acoustics with Strat Headstocks: These are generally considered less desirable due to their construction and tone.
- Old Used Twelve-Strings: Unless you are very experienced and know what to look for, older 12-strings can have neck and structural issues due to string tension over time. Newer “new used” 12-strings might be less risky.
- Laminate Top Guitars (for tone purists): While laminate tops are durable and affordable, they generally don’t develop the tonal complexity of solid wood tops over time. If you’re seeking that aged, resonant tone, solid tops are generally preferred. However, laminate tops can be perfectly fine for beginner or “beater” guitars.
Where to Hunt for Your 2nd Hand Acoustic Guitar Treasure
So, where are the best places to find these 2nd hand acoustic gems? Here are some recommendations:
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guitarweb on eBay: If you’re comfortable with minor cosmetic flaws or professionally repaired instruments and are looking for value, guitarweb on eBay is worth checking. They often have a rotating inventory of brands like Gretsch, Garrison, Takamine, and Tacoma, with good deals on slightly imperfect or refurbished guitars.
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Shoreline Acoustic Music (Online): For those seeking higher-end instruments, Shoreline Acoustic Music is a must-browse website. They specialize in quality brands like McIlroy, Taylor, Martin, Lakewood, Brook, Fylde, and Northwood, often with trade-ins available. Their “Dutch Auction” page can sometimes reveal exceptional deals on high-quality guitars (though “deals” are relative in the high-end market).
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Elderly Instruments (Online and Store): Elderly Instruments is a legendary source for all types of guitars, from affordable vintage models to museum-quality rarities. They are known for their detailed and honest condition descriptions. Whether you have $135,000 for a vintage Martin or $200 for a starter guitar, Elderly Instruments is a great place to explore.
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Buffalo Brothers Guitars (Online and Store): Buffalo Brothers offers a solid selection of mid-to-high-end guitars, and they also have a dedicated section for left-handed instruments, which is a bonus for southpaw players.
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Fat Dawg’s World Famous Subway Guitars (Online and Store): For a more offbeat and bargain-hunting experience, check out Fat Dawg’s. They have a diverse inventory, good prices, and a generous return policy, making it a fun place to shop for something unique.
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Pawn Shops (Local): Don’t overlook local pawn shops as potential sources for used guitars. You might stumble upon a hidden gem at a surprisingly low price. Research pawn shop buying tips online before you go to maximize your chances of a good find.
I sincerely hope this guide helps you in your quest for that perfect acoustic tone, perhaps found within a 2nd hand instrument with years of character and musical potential waiting to be unlocked. Good luck with your search, and if you have further questions, the online guitar community and forums are always ready to help!