For guitar players, regardless of their style, genre, or gear, one task is universally inevitable: restringing the guitar. Whether you’re wielding an acoustic, electric, or classical guitar, those strings will eventually lose their vibrancy and need replacing. As a guitar technician and luthier, I’ve witnessed countless approaches to this essential maintenance, ranging from effective methods to some truly baffling techniques. I’ve also experienced my fair share of close calls with rusty, sharp string ends. Often, removing the old strings proves more time-consuming than installing a fresh set.
Many guitarists, even seasoned players with decades of experience, often feel hesitant about restringing their guitars themselves. This reluctance often stems from a fear of damaging their instrument. This guide aims to demystify the process, making it not only easier but even enjoyable. We’ll cover the fundamentals of guitar restringing and share valuable tips gleaned from years of hands-on experience.
Knowing When It’s Time for New Strings
A common question from beginner guitarists is, “How often should I change my guitar strings?”. Unfortunately, there’s no single definitive answer. The lifespan of guitar strings depends on several factors, including playing style, frequency of playing, and even your body chemistry, specifically sweat acidity. Some players with highly acidic sweat might find their strings dead in just 30 minutes of playing, while others can stretch a set for months.
In my workshop, the decision to restring is usually based on visible signs of wear and tear. I recommend changing strings if you notice any visible grime or buildup, especially on the underside of the strings near the fretboard. Another telltale sign is dents or flat spots on the wound strings directly over the frets. Ultimately, personal preference also plays a role. Some guitarists love the bright, crisp sound of new strings, while others prefer the warmer, more mellow tone of strings that have been played in a bit. Learning to identify the “sweet spot” of a string set’s lifespan is key to finding what works best for you and your sound.
Avoiding Common Restringing Mistakes
One frequent mistake during guitar restringing is losing small, but crucial parts. Many components on a guitar, especially older instruments, are held in place primarily by string tension. Bridge pins, saddles, nuts, and tuner bushings (the small metal sleeves around the tuner posts) can easily become dislodged and fall off when strings are removed. These tiny parts are notoriously difficult to find if they roll under furniture. Therefore, always work on a clean, uncluttered surface like a table.
Archtop guitars present a unique consideration. Their bridges are always floating, meaning they are held in place solely by string tension. When restringing an archtop, it’s vital to mark the bridge’s exact position before removing the old strings. A simple trick is to use painter’s tape. Before applying, slightly reduce its stickiness by pressing it against your clothing first. Place a small piece of tape on either side of the bridge, making a pencil mark aligning with the bridge’s edge. This ensures accurate bridge repositioning during restringing.
To minimize pin loss and for sheer convenience, I prefer to secure all the strings at the bridge or tailpiece first before winding them onto the tuning posts. Ensuring the ball ends are properly seated is critical. In pin-style bridges, ball ends can sometimes hang below the bridge plate, causing unwanted buzzing. To avoid this, insert the string ball into its designated hole and loosely insert the pin. Gently pull the string upwards until you feel the ball end firmly seat against the underside of the guitar top, then firmly press the pin into place. For guitars with tailpieces, double-check each string’s anchor point before bringing it up to tension, as these ball ends are more prone to slipping out during the process.
A Simple and Reliable Restringing Technique
When I first learned to restring guitars, I was taught a complex method involving tucking the string’s free end under the first winding on the tuner post to prevent slippage. It took considerable practice to execute this technique without leaving slack in the loops. Removing old strings was also a hassle, as they often broke at the tuner post, leaving sharp, tiny rings of string stuck in the holes, requiring pliers for removal. It was far from ideal.
However, at Veillette Guitars, I discovered a much simpler and more effective technique that has become my go-to method. This stringing technique has proven reliable for a wide range of string gauges, from incredibly light .007 strings under high tension to massive .095 sub-bass strings. Even when tuned to their breaking point, the strings would snap before the windings would ever slip.
The core principle of this method is to create opposing kinks in the string on each side of the tuner post. Simply insert the string through the tuner post hole, leaving enough slack between the nut and bridge to fit about four fingers between the string and fretboard. Then, simultaneously bend the string on both sides of the post to create a Z shape through the hole (for bass-side strings, bend both sides clockwise). Clip off the excess string length and wind the string onto the tuning post. Ensure each winding wraps below the previous one, progressively bringing the string closer to the headstock as you wind.
With the correct amount of slack, you should achieve two to three wraps for thicker strings and a maximum of three to five wraps for thinner strings. Too many wraps can lead to tuning instability as they can pile up unevenly on the post. Conversely, too few wraps may cause string slippage, regardless of the winding technique.
Stringing with this simple Z-bend is quicker than any other method I’ve encountered and has proven consistently reliable over countless string changes. Removing strings from the tuner posts is also effortless. Even if a string breaks at the post, the remaining end simply falls out, eliminating the need for tools. Over the years, I’ve encountered strings that were double-threaded, knotted, twisted, and even glued onto tuner posts – needless to say, these methods are unnecessary and problematic. Whether you prefer to restring your guitar yourself or entrust it to a technician, this simple, foolproof technique will make the process more reliable and enjoyable.
