Every guitarist, regardless of their skill level or preferred gear, shares a common task: changing guitar strings. For many, especially those newer to playing, the thought of reStringing An Acoustic Guitar can be daunting. Fear of damaging the instrument or simply not knowing the correct steps can lead to procrastination or reliance on others to perform this essential maintenance. As someone who has spent years working with guitars, from building them to repairing them, I’ve witnessed all sorts of approaches to stringing – some effective, others less so, and occasionally, some that are downright bewildering. I’ve also seen the results of neglected strings, from guitars with corroded metal digging into the fretboard to instruments brought in with bizarre buzzing sounds caused by improperly installed strings.
This guide aims to demystify the process of stringing an acoustic guitar. We’ll cover not just the how-to, but also the when and why of string changes, along with tips to avoid common pitfalls. The goal is to empower you to confidently and efficiently restring your acoustic guitar, ensuring optimal playability and tone.
Knowing When to Change Your Acoustic Guitar Strings
One of the most frequently asked questions by novice guitarists is, “How often should I change my strings?” The truth is, there’s no single answer that fits everyone. The lifespan of your guitar strings depends on a variety of factors, including your playing style, how often you play, and even your body chemistry. Some players with particularly acidic sweat might find their strings dull and corroded in a matter of days, while others can get weeks or even months of life out of a set.
Alt text: Detail view of old acoustic guitar strings exhibiting visible dirt and wear, highlighting the need for replacement.
In my experience, a good rule of thumb is to change your strings when you notice visible signs of wear. This could be grime buildup, especially noticeable on the underside of the strings near the fretboard, or dents and flat spots on the wound strings where they press against the frets. Beyond visual cues, your ears will also tell you when it’s time for a change. Fresh strings deliver a bright, vibrant tone, while older strings gradually lose their brilliance, becoming duller and less resonant. Some players prefer the initial sparkle of new strings, while others appreciate the warmer, more mellow sound of strings that have been played in a bit. Experimenting to find your personal preference and the “sweet spot” for string life is part of the journey of becoming a seasoned guitarist.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Restringing
Restringing an acoustic guitar is generally straightforward, but there are a few common mistakes that can lead to frustration or even minor issues with your instrument. One frequent problem is losing small, easily misplaced parts. Many components on an acoustic guitar, such as bridge pins, the saddle, the nut, and tuner bushings (the small sleeves around the tuner posts on the headstock), are held in place primarily by string tension. When you remove all the strings, these parts can become loose and potentially fall off. This is particularly common on older guitars where these parts might not fit as snugly as they once did. Searching for a tiny bridge pin that has rolled under the sofa is a common, and avoidable, annoyance. To prevent this, always work on a clean, uncluttered surface like a table.
Alt text: Detailed shot of an acoustic guitar bridge, emphasizing the bridge pins and saddle as small, detachable components susceptible to being lost during string changes.
For guitars with archtop bridges, the entire bridge is held in place solely by string tension. Therefore, it’s crucial to note the exact position of the bridge before removing the old strings. A simple trick is to use masking tape to mark the bridge’s location. Before applying the tape, slightly de-tack it by sticking it to your clothing first – this prevents the tape adhesive from potentially harming the guitar’s finish. Place a small piece of tape on either side of the bridge, marking the front edge with a pencil. This ensures you can reposition the bridge precisely where it needs to be after restringing, maintaining correct intonation.
Another important aspect is properly anchoring the strings at the bridge or tailpiece. I find it convenient to insert all the string ends at the bridge or tailpiece first, before attaching them to the tuning pegs. With pin-style bridges, ensure the ball end of each string is correctly seated beneath the bridge plate inside the guitar body. Sometimes, the ball end can dangle below the plate, causing rattling or buzzing. To avoid this, insert the string ball into its designated hole, loosely insert the bridge pin, and then gently pull upwards on the string until you feel the ball seat firmly against the underside of the guitar top. Once seated, press the bridge pin firmly into place. For guitars with tailpieces, double-check that each string’s ball end is securely anchored in the tailpiece before bringing the string up to tension, as these can occasionally slip out during the process.
The Simple and Effective Z-Bend Stringing Technique
When I first learned to restring a guitar, I was taught a somewhat intricate method involving tucking the string’s free end under the initial winding on the tuning peg to “lock” it in place. While this method is intended to prevent slippage, it can be fiddly to execute cleanly and often makes removing old strings a frustrating task. Old strings wound this way often break at the tuning peg, leaving sharp, stubborn pieces stuck in the post holes, requiring pliers or specialized tools for removal.
Thankfully, during my time at Veillette Guitars, I learned a much simpler and more efficient technique that has become my preferred method for stringing an acoustic guitar: the Z-bend method. This technique is remarkably versatile and reliable, working equally well for light-gauge strings under high tension and heavy-gauge strings like those used on baritone or bass guitars. I’ve used this method on countless guitars, and strings wound this way have consistently held firm, even under extreme tension. In fact, when tuning strings to their breaking point for testing purposes, the string invariably snaps before the winding slips on the tuning peg.
Alt text: Illustration depicting the Z-bend stringing method, showcasing how to create opposing bends in the guitar string around the tuning peg hole for secure and slip-free stringing.
The Z-bend technique is straightforward. Begin by inserting the string through the hole in the tuning peg post. Pull the string through, leaving a bit of slack between the nut and the bridge – roughly enough to fit four fingers between the string and the fretboard when the string is stretched. Next, simultaneously bend the string on both sides of the tuning peg post in opposite directions, creating a “Z” shape with the string as it passes through the hole. For bass-side strings, bend both sides clockwise. Trim the excess string end beyond the tuning peg. Now, begin winding the string by turning the tuning key. Ensure that each new wrap of the string winds below the previous wrap on the tuning post. This directs the string downwards, closer to the headstock, which improves tuning stability and break angle over the nut.
With the correct amount of slack, you should aim for approximately two to three wraps around the tuning post for the thicker, lower-pitched strings and a maximum of three to five wraps for the thinner, higher-pitched strings. Too many wraps can lead to tuning instability as the string windings can pile up and bind against each other, causing uneven winding. Conversely, too few wraps might not provide sufficient grip, potentially causing the string to slip, regardless of the winding technique used.
The Z-bend stringing acoustic guitar method is not only faster than more complex techniques but also incredibly reliable. In my years of experience, having strung tens of thousands of guitars, it has proven to be consistently effective. Furthermore, removing strings strung with the Z-bend is incredibly easy. Even if a string breaks at the tuning peg, the remaining end typically falls right out of the hole, eliminating the need for tools or frustrating extraction processes. Over the years, I’ve encountered all sorts of elaborate stringing methods – strings double-threaded, knotted, twisted, and even glued in place! Whether you prefer to restring your acoustic guitar yourself or have a technician do it, adopting this simple and foolproof Z-bend method will make the process much more reliable, efficient, and enjoyable.
This article is adapted and expanded from content originally featured in Acoustic Guitar magazine.
