Affinity Squier Telecasters are renowned for being a fantastic entry point into the world of electric guitars, offering the iconic Telecaster design at an accessible price. Many guitarists start their journey with a Squier Telecaster, and for good reason. They look great and generally provide a solid playing experience right out of the box. However, like any mass-produced instrument, even brand new Squier Telecasters can sometimes have hidden issues that might not be immediately apparent.
Recently, a customer brought me a beautiful, almost pristine-looking two-year-old blonde Squier Telecaster for a setup. He was a player who typically handled his own guitar setups, but this one had him stumped. The problem he was encountering? Excessively low string action despite the bridge saddles being raised to their maximum height. This is a common frustration for guitarists, and it signaled that there was more to this seemingly simple setup than met the eye.
A blonde Squier Telecaster undergoing inspection on a guitar tech’s workbench, highlighting potential setup issues.
My initial assessment confirmed the customer’s concerns. The strings were practically resting on the frets, yet the saddle screws were towering high above the bridge plate. My first thought, like many seasoned guitar techs, was, “This guitar probably needs a neck shim.” A neck shim is often used to adjust the neck angle and improve string action, and I confidently announced that a shim would likely solve the problem. Little did I know, this Telecaster had other plans for me.
Following my standard procedure, I began by taking precise measurements. The neck relief was a significant 0.035 inches, far exceeding the ideal 0.010 inches. String heights were also inconsistent, ranging from 0.025 to 0.040 inches, with the high E string even higher at 0.050 inches. The desired string height range for optimal playability is typically between 0.065 inches (low E) and 0.055 inches (high E). Furthermore, the nut slots for the E through B strings were around 0.030 inches, at least 0.010 inches too high, while the high E string slot was almost non-existent, barely clearing the first fret.
Detailed view of the Telecaster bridge, showcasing saddle height and measurement tools used to assess string action and setup.
I proceeded to adjust the neck relief using the truss rod. The truss rod tension felt normal during adjustment until I reached the desired 0.010 inches of relief. This raised a question in my mind: are Squier guitars now using bi-flex truss rods? The information online is conflicting, a common occurrence in the guitar world, so I decided to set that question aside for the moment and focus on the action issue.
Since adjusting the relief didn’t lower the action sufficiently, I moved on to what I thought would be the next logical step: shimming the neck. I removed the neck, inspected the neck pocket for any irregularities, and applied a 0.010-inch aluminum shim (essentially, a piece of a/c tape). After reassembling the guitar and remeasuring the action, I was surprised to find absolutely no change! The action remained stubbornly high.
Thinking perhaps a single shim wasn’t enough, I considered adding a second shim. However, common sense prevailed. If one shim made no difference, adding another of the same thickness was unlikely to magically resolve the issue. I realized I was barking up the wrong tree. It was time to put on my detective hat and figure out the real root cause of this problem.
After closer inspection, I discovered the hidden culprit. It turned out that the holes drilled in the guitar body for the neck screws were slightly too large. My theory is that at the factory, a drill bit might have broken, and a replacement bit that was “close enough” was used – specifically, a 1/8-inch bit instead of the correct 5/32-inch bit.
While the slightly larger 1/8-inch screws still seemed to bite into the wood of both the body and the neck, the oversized holes in the body prevented the neck from being pulled completely tight and flush against the body. This tiny gap was enough to throw off the entire geometry of the guitar and cause the high action issue. The fix was relatively simple but required identifying the problem first. Using the correct 5/32-inch drill bit, I carefully enlarged the holes in the body to the proper size. After a few minutes of work, the neck could be properly seated and tightened, resolving the primary action problem.
With the neck issue resolved, I turned my attention to the other problems I had identified during my initial assessment. The next item on the list was the high nut slots. For this, I used my Music Nomad nut file set, a fantastic tool for precisely adjusting nut slot height. I carefully filed down the E through B string slots to the correct depth.
Detailed shot of a guitar nut being worked on with nut files to adjust slot depth for optimal string height and playability.
The high E string slot was a different story, being too low. To remedy this, I used a technique involving baking soda and CA (cyanoacrylate) glue. I first cleaned the slot with a 0.010-inch nut file, then used tiny pieces of tape to dam both sides of the slot. I packed baking soda into the slot, saturated it with thin CA glue, and allowed it to cure for a minute. Once cured, the hardened baking soda and CA mixture provided a solid base that I could then file down to the proper height. While on a high-end guitar, replacing the nut might be the preferred solution, on a Squier, this baking soda and CA fix is a cost-effective and durable alternative, often resulting in a harder and more resilient material than the original plastic nut.
Moving on, I addressed another common issue on budget-friendly guitars: sharp fret ends. The fret ends on this Squier Telecaster were indeed sharp enough to be uncomfortable. Thankfully, this is a quick fix. I used a one-inch thick, stiff #240 sanding foam block to smooth down the fret ends. This process took only about a minute and is much faster and gentler on the fretboard compared to filing each fret end individually with a traditional triangle file.
While checking the guitar’s hardware, I discovered that the 10mm nuts holding the tuner keys were loose. I could spin them with my fingers! Loose tuner hardware can lead to tuning instability and unwanted buzzing. Snugging up these nuts ensured that the tuners were securely mounted.
Finally, it was time to address the guitar’s intonation. Everything seemed normal until I got to the high E string. While it tuned perfectly open, when fretted at the twelfth fret, it registered as an F# instead of an E! The intonation screw was already at its limit and couldn’t move the saddle back far enough to correct the intonation. I double-checked the scale length (25.5 inches) and the distance to the twelfth fret (12.75 inches), and everything seemed correct. Puzzled, I put on my reading glasses for a closer look. And then I saw it. The high E string was resting on the edge of the bridge pickup, effectively shortening the string length and causing the intonation issue! Once I lowered the bridge pickup height (something I usually adjust after setting intonation), the string cleared the pickup, and the intonation could be set correctly.
This Squier Affinity Telecaster, despite its like-new appearance, presented a series of unexpected challenges. From oversized neck screw holes to high nut slots, sharp fret ends, loose tuners, and bridge pickup interference, it highlighted that even guitars straight from the factory can benefit from a thorough setup and inspection. While Affinity Squier Telecasters offer incredible value, understanding these potential hidden issues can empower players to either address them themselves or seek professional assistance to unlock the full potential of their instrument. Taking the time to properly set up a Squier Telecaster can transform it from a good budget guitar into a great playing instrument.
